Your garden doesn’t stand a chance against 400 million rabbits. That’s the current feral rabbit population across Australia. In Victoria alone, 20 million rabbits are currently consuming their way through urban and peri-urban properties. While biological controls like myxomatosis and RHDV viruses work well in rural areas, they’re unreliable in your backyard. Myxomatosis affects only 40-50% of the rabbit population now due to genetic resistance. That’s why you need a different approach.
Why Fencing Is Your Only Long-Term Solution
Rabbits cause more than $200 million in agricultural losses annually. However, the damage to your property is immediate and visible. They graze plants to ground level, prevent seedling establishment, ringbark young trees and destroy vegetable gardens overnight. Here’s the reality. A density of less than one rabbit per hectare is insufficient for the successful regeneration of native trees and shrubs. Your property likely has more than that. While integrated control methods help reduce populations temporarily, fencing is the only DIY solution that provides 100% protection when installed correctly. Even better, with proper maintenance, your fence will last up to 20 years.
The Specifications That Matter
Most rabbit fencing fails because people use the wrong materials or skip critical installation steps. To succeed where others fail, your fence needs three things to work. The right mesh size. Wire netting with 30mm mesh excludes juvenile rabbits completely. However, this size isn’t readily available in Australia. Instead, use 40mm mesh as your standard. It’s available everywhere and stops adult rabbits effectively. The right height. Rabbits jump over fences that are 500mm high. Your fence must be at least 900mm (90cm) above ground level. This height prevents jumping without requiring excessive materials. The right depth. Since rabbits burrow, your fence must extend at least 200mm (20cm) below ground level or include an L-skirt that lies flat on the ground pointing outward.
Step-by-Step Installation Process
Once you understand the specifications, it’s time to build. Materials you’ll need. Galvanised wire mesh (40mm aperture maximum), treated timber or steel posts (1.2m length minimum), U-nails or fence staples, wire ties, and ground pegs or weights (for L-skirt method). Installation steps. Start by marking your perimeter. Walk your property line and mark post positions every 2-3 meters. Closer spacing provides better support and prevents sagging. Next, install posts by digging holes 300mm deep. Set posts vertically and backfill with concrete or compacted soil. Posts should extend 1 meter above ground level. Once posts are secure, attach the mesh. Start at a corner post.
Unroll the mesh and attach it to the posts using U-nails or staples every 150mm. Keep the mesh taut as you work. After the mesh is attached, create the underground barrier. Choose your method. Trench method. Dig a trench 200mm deep along the fence line. Bury the bottom 200mm of mesh vertically. L-skirt method. Leave 200mm of mesh extending horizontally on the ground, pointing away from your property. Secure with ground pegs every 500mm or weight with soil. Finally, secure all joints. Where mesh sections meet, overlap by at least 100mm. Use wire ties every 100mm along the overlap. One more critical detail. Gates are weak points. Ensure gate bottoms sit flush with the ground or install a buried threshold.
Protecting Individual Trees
Beyond perimeter fencing, young trees need additional protection even inside fenced areas. Here’s why. Rabbits ringbark trees by chewing bark in a complete circle around the trunk. This kills the tree by cutting off nutrient flow. Tree protection cylinders work. Use the same 40mm wire mesh. Create cylinders at least 600mm high. Position cylinders 25-50mm away from the trunk. Extend height if you expect snow (add 500mm above the expected snow depth). Secure cylinders with stakes so they don’t shift. The gap between the mesh and the trunk prevents bark damage while allowing tree growth.
Maintenance and Long-Term Performance
Installing the fence is just the beginning. Your fence requires regular inspection to maintain effectiveness. Monthly checks. Walk the entire perimeter. Look for holes, gaps, or damage. Check that L-skirts remain flat and secured. Verify posts are still vertical and stable. Remove vegetation growing against the mesh. Immediate repairs. Fix any damage the same day you find it. One small hole becomes an entry point for your entire local rabbit population. Keep in mind that while galvanised mesh resists rust for years, ground-level sections corrode faster due to soil contact. Therefore, inspect these areas more frequently.
What Fencing Won’t Do
Before you start building, understand the limitations. Fencing protects your property. It doesn’t reduce rabbit numbers in your area. You’re creating a barrier, not solving the broader population problem. Rabbits will continue breeding outside your fence and pressuring your perimeter. This matters because rabbits threaten 300 native species, including 24 critically endangered species. Your fence protects your investment, but doesn’t address the ecological damage. For that reason, consider coordinating with neighbours on broader control efforts. Integrated approaches combining fencing with population reduction methods work best at the community level.
The Bottom Line
Rabbit-proof fencing works when you install it correctly. Use 40mm galvanised mesh. Build it 900mm high. Extend it 200mm below ground or use an L-skirt. Protect individual trees with wire cylinders. Yes, the installation takes time. The materials cost money. But in return, you’ll have 20 years of reliable protection. Your alternative is watching rabbits destroy your garden every season while waiting for biological controls that don’t work effectively in urban settings. The choice is clear.
